Niacinamide, also known as VB3, is an important member of the vitamin family. Research history of niacinamide: As early as 1974, GPM et al. First discovered that 1-5% niacin and 1-4% sunscreen can be compounded into a cream system to achieve skin whitening. The mechanism of action of niacinamide on the skin is: niacin activates cyclic 3,5-nucleotide phosphodiesterase, which breaks down 3,5-cyclic adenosine, which stimulates melanocyte hormone to adenine-5-monophosphate, thereby reducing the production of melanin. ①The whitening mechanism of niacinamide mainly includes the following aspects: (1) Accelerate metabolism and promote the shedding of keratinocytes containing melanin Skin cells need sufficient energy to complete their daily physiological functions, such as producing new cells, synthesizing collagen, producing fat and protein, and synthesizing DNA. Aging and other reasons often cause a decrease in the energy of cell activity, resulting in slower cell renewal, excessive pigmentation, reduced skin moisture, uneven cuticles, etc. Because niacinamide has a small molecule, it can be directly absorbed by cells. Niacinamide can maintain the energy balance of the skin, while restoring cell energy and accelerating collagen synthesis, thereby avoiding excessive melanin deposition caused by low oil content and thinning of the stratum corneum. In addition, niacinamide promotes the shedding of keratinocytes containing melanin by accelerating skin renewal. (ii) Act on the melanin that has already been produced, reducing its transfer to the surface cells Because only when melanin is delivered to keratinocytes will the skin appear darker. Niacinamide acts on the melanin that has already been produced, effectively inhibiting the transfer of about 35% to 40% of melanin from melanocytes to keratinocytes, thereby reducing excessive pigmentation. Clinical trials have shown that using a moisturizer containing niacinamide can significantly reduce the area and number of brown spots on the skin, and the lightening of the color of the spots can be seen with the naked eye. This is the most important reason why niacinamide acts as a whitening agent. (III) Promote the synthesis of epidermal protein and improve skin texture Niacinamide can promote the synthesis of epidermal protein, enhance the skin's own defense ability, and increase the skin's moisture content. Therefore, niacinamide is also widely used in anti-aging products. |
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